The Lesser Known Rock-cut Shrines at Trichy's Rockfort

When we hear the term "Trichy", the first thing that comes to our mind is the  vision of the giant rockfort atop in which the Uchi Pillayar is sitting and blessing the fertile land of Cholas. But the efforts of the poor Pallavas are often gone in vain who tried their level best to scoop the hard rock and sculpt a cave temple 200 ft above the ground level.

Shiva Shrine at Lalitankura Pallavesvara Griham (Upper Rock-cut Shrine)

Most of the people are not aware about this beautiful rock-cut cave shrine.  But Kalki’s fans might know about this magnificent sight. This cave temple is an important spot in the historical fiction. Vikrama Cholan plots to hoist the royal flag of Cholas on this Sirappalli hillock after bringing down the flag of Pallavas on a Purattasi Pournami day. Ultimately his uncle conspires against him and informs the Pallava King Narasimhavarman. He then arrests Vikrama Chola and sends him off to one of the islands that’s under the rule of the Pallavas.

Facade of the Lower Rock-cut Shrine

  

Since Pallavas are the ones who significantly understood the necessities of the temples and the temple architecture evolved throughout their rule. From rock-cut shrines to structural temples, Pallavas can be rightly called as the "leading light of building temples". Mahabalipuram exhibits the extent of experiments they carried out to finally innovate the best way of constructing a place of worship that would stand for millenniums to come.  

The Upper cave temple is named as the ‘Lalitankura Pallavesvara Griham’ as per the inscriptions engraved in the pillars and pilasters in beautiful calligraphic Pallava Grantham. This upper cave temple is assigned to the period of the great Vichitra Chittan – Mahendravarman Pallava (600-630 CE). This cave temple, although is not functioning now, but it is interesting for 2 main reasons. One is that Pallavas had so much expertise and their sculptors were adventurous enough to construct a shrine in the hillock at the level of 200ft from ground. It is said that there existed a Jaina bed in the same site, which later was extended by the Pallavas.It is said that Mahendravarman tried to build a sanctum for Lord Shiva. It is still puzzling debate on the exact purpose of the two sockets that is present in this shrine that is guarded by 2 handsome Dwarapalas.

Gangadharamurthy Panel

  

Opposite to this sanctum is the panel which stands as another important reason that this cave temple should be crowded by the people. Here is the beautiful panel of Lord Shiva represented as Gangadharamurthy. This Majestic sculpture of Gangadharamurthy is sculpted in a way such that it is overlooking the river Cauvery that helps the land of Cholas to flourish. The inscriptions engraved on the pilasters near this sculpture carries the Sanskrit verses in Pallava Grantha that talks about the greatness of Gangadharamurthy that is sculpted here. Another fascinating aspect of this Sanskrit poem is that it’s written in a style commonly known as ‘Dhvani’, which means that it conveys a message that has double meaning. Although the iconographical elements of this Gangadhara Panel is of Lord Shiva’s, but it can also be seen as Mahendravarman who imagined himself as great as the Gangadhara, who’s not only holding the sacred river Ganges (can be understood as his own Pallava kingdom) in his matted hair but also overlooks the prosperity of the Cauvery (Can be interpreted as Mahendravarman also overlooks/cares for the land of Cholas as well.

Goddess Durga - Lower Rock-cut Shrine

This is the poetic beauty of these Sanskrit verses that adds to the majestic charm of the Gangadharamurthy or it could also be Mahendravarman. Art historians also jokingly conceive that Parvati, consort of Lord Shiva was extremely angry on him as he not only holds Ganges on his matted hair but also overlooks another woman (river Cauvery), that is why she is not present/sculpted in the panel at all.

Some might get offended that it is not an appropriate way to portray a king through the Panel of God himself. But, Mahendravarman was one of the greatest of his times. Also for a die-hard fan of Mahendravarman like me (after reading Sivagamiyin Sabadham by Kalki and studying about his phenomenal contribution to the architectural evolution of temples and to the world of art), it is still understandable. This Gangadharamurthy panel justifiably reflects the charm of the king Mahendravarman. 

A Monkey amongst the Ganas in the frieze - Lower Rock-cut Shrine

Now, slightly coming back to the real world away from the charm of Mahendravarman. This huge rockfort of Trichy also shelters another rock-cut shrine. This is popularly (although not known to the masses) known as the lower-cave temple. The lower cave temple’s authenticity is still being debated by scholars. Few scholars assign this lower cave as the works of Pandiyans while the ASI claims it as the work of Narasimhavarman, the son of Mahendravarman Pallava. Both of these assumptions roughly dates after 630 CE.

This rock-cut shrine shelters life size sculptures of Ganesha, Kartikeya, Brahma, Surya and Durga in the prominent niches. At the each end of the cave, there are 2 sanctums. One sanctum has the bas relief of Lord Vishnu with two Dwarapalas and the sanctum opposite to this should have probably sheltered a Lingam or a relief of Lord Shiva. In the frieze of the Bhoota Ganas that is sculpted above the pillars in the front façade, monkey faced Gana is a notable inclusion.

Shrine of Lord Vishnu at the Lower Rock-cut shrine

The Ganesha’s relief in this cave temple is an important sculpture that stands as an evidence of the evolution of the Ganapatyam cult during that period of time in the region. Except the relief of Goddess Durga, all other deities are seen with 2 Vidhyadharas flanking them on each side. We can also see a man severing his head to offer it to Goddess Durga. This kind of offering is known as ‘Arikandam’ and this is done by some courageous war-heros in order to win in the battlefield.

Probably the Shrine of Lord Shiva - Lower Rock-cut Temple

Both these cave temples shelters significant sculptural relief. The upper cave temple is the only southernmost rock-cut shrine built by Pallavas.

Lord Ganesha's Relief at the Lower Rock-cut Temple

Both the Upper and lower Cave temples are sadly existing there for over a millennia and awaiting for  people to come and explore them. The deities in these rock-cut shrines would be happy even if half the crowd that visits the Uchi Pillayar and Thayumanaswamy leisurely takes some time and explores them.

Yours East Gaterr