Remnants of Ancient Pallavas in the Glorious Capital of the Cholas

The main reason that Tamil Nadu is known for its great temples and the marvelous architecture began when Mahendravarma Pallava built a temple carved out from the rock in Mandagapattu. Mahendravarma Pallava was also known as Vichitra-Chittan for him being a unique innovator. The kings after Mahendravarma Pallava innovated more creative ideas and built different types of temples. Temples in rock (Mamallapuram, Mandagapattu, Seeyamangalam and other cave temples), temples in sandstone (Kanchi Kailasanathar, Vaikunda Perumal Temple) etc.

Pallavas can rightly be called as the fathers of temple architecture when it comes to Tamil Nadu. But people of Tamil Nadu almost forgot this dynasty.

Cholas became powerful in the 9^th Century winning over the Pallavas who were declining because of constant wars with the Chalukyas from the north and Pandiyas from the South. Before that Pallavas ruled over the large area of present day Tamil Nadu comprising the areas of present day Thanjavur, Trichy and Pudukkottai districts. We can see ancient rock-cut cave temples and other structural temples with the design elements of the Pallava style in the above mentioned areas.

Towards the end of their rule, Pallavas realized the necessity of building and strengthening a capital towards south of their headquarter Kanchi. They chose the fertile lands between the many tributaries of the Cauvery River. Nandivarman II, is credited with the construction of this southern base. This new base for Pallavas was built in and around the present villages of Kandiyur and Veerasingampettai near Thiruvaiyaru. This base of the Pallavas were known as Nandipuram, Aayirathali (Temple of 1000 Lingams). This Nandipuram finds it mention only during and after the period of Nandivarman II. Also some other Chola inscriptions of Parantaka I, Rajaraja I and Rajendra I talks about few other Chola temples that were functioning at that point of time. Such temples are now only found in the inscriptions.

The first literary mention of Thanjavur in the hymn of Thiruvizhimizhalai by Appar (7^th Century) gives us the name of a temple called ‘Thanjai Thalikulathu Mahadevar’ and in the hymns of Azhwars sung praising Lord Vishnu of Thanjai Maamani Kovil. All these mentions shows us there were temples that pre-dates the Chola period temples. But today because of the ravages of time and fortunate cultural rejuvenation that happened during the period of Cholas, Nayaks and the Marathas of Thanjavur, these ancient temples reflects only the later historic fabric.

When Rajendra shifted his capital from Thanjavur to Gangaikonda Cholapuram, Thanjavur lost its prominence as an administrative center. After the decline of Cholas, Nayaks were appointed to rule Thanjavur and they brought back the charm to Thanjavur. They reconstructed many temples and also built new temples using the materials and debris from the dilapidated structures. 

Pallava Simha Pillar at the Mahamandapam of Brihadeeshwara Temple

Even though Thanjavur was celebrated by the Cholas, Nayaks and the Marathas, it still shelters the remnants of the Pallavas graciously. Temples that were reconstructed during the Nayak period carry these fragments of glorious past of Thanjavur before the Cholas made it as their capital. Even the Brihadeeshwara temple, pinnacle of Chola temple architecture shelters a Pallava Simha pillar at the Mahamandapam which was repaired and reconstructed by the Nayaks of Thanjavur.

Pallava Simha Pillar at Narasimha Perumal Temple, Palliagraharam

Thanjai Maamani Kovil is a Divyadesam, abode of lord Vishnu sanctified by the Azhwars. Three temples located back to back at the Palliagraharam on the banks of river Vennaru. The first temple in the line is of Narasimha Perumal where a Simha Pillar of Pallava period is put to inappropriate use in the temple’s well here. 

Ganesha Sculpture at Konkaneshwarar Temple

Konkaneshwarar temple in the west main street is a Nayak period temple and later renovated during the Marathas rule. This temple shelters 2 beautiful sculptures of Pallavas style. One is the sculpture of Lord Ganesha and another is of Chandikeshwara.

Chandikeshwara Sculpture at Konkaneshwara Temple

There are temples in and around Thanjavur that still bears the inscriptions of the later Pallava kings. While celebrating the grandeur of the Cholas and others, we often ignore these fragments of history of Pallavas that added more wealth in the form of temple architecture of Tamil Nadu.

Yours East Gaterr

Rajarajeshwaram - The Pinnacle of Chozha Architecture - 4

We have seen a lot of surprising facts about the magnum opus of Raja Raja Chozan and at the same time, many myths and the truth have also been disclosed in a post. As I completely read the ‘Rajarajecharam’ of Dr. Kudavayil Balasubramaniyan, I got to know much more astounding facts about the temple. Thanjavur temple is not only the epitome of Dravidian architecture, this temple is also well-known for its inscription, which has every minute details and every single contributions for the temple was etched in. We all know many kings have patronised the priceless art forms understanding their value. Raja Raja Chozhan did no less than others. In fact he did more than anyone could do at their time.

As we all know that among the other dynasties in Tamil Nadu, Chozha era was considered the golden period of the Tamils. Chozhas contribution towards the arts, architecture and other professions are still standing strong even after a millennium. Chozhas were economically strong and transparent as well. The economic transparency can be understood by going through and deciphering the inscriptions in the temple. Every little contributions was accounted for and acknowledged in the inscriptions.

There was also a monopoly in pricing. The king is the one who fixes the prices for the products. The money from the treasury was lent for interest in the markets. The shopkeepers/owners have to give back to the temple in the form of any items which were required for Pooja. For example, Bananas, coconuts, flowers and many other things. This way, the king fixed the price for the products that the shopkeepers gave for the Poojas. This method ensured the availability of capital for the business and the temple functioned well with the flow of Pooja materials. They had 2 different treasuries, one for the temple and other for the country. Accounts for the both were maintained separately. The wages for the employees of temple was paid from the treasury of the temple and for the government workers, from the government’s treasury.

Other than this, one fascinating fact we all know about the temple is the traditional dancers who were dedicated to the temple. Dance was an integral part of the temple ritual traditions along with music and other art forms. There were 400 dancers, brought to the Rajarajecharam from various part of the Chozha countryside. There were more than 100 different artistes offering their artistic services to Lord Peruvudaiyar. They were given houses, grains and pulses and were assigned with many responsibilities for their service to the Lord. The inscriptions were so precise that, it had enough information about the salaries given to the artistes, their previous work place, their native villages and their names were mentioned.

These detailed inscription in the Rajarajecharam also gives the exact details and the measurements of the bronze statues offered by Raja Raja Chozhan, his queens, his commander and his Rajaguru Eesana Shiva Pandithar etc. The descriptions given in the inscriptions helps one to visualise those bronze art works of the Chozha era, ninety percent of which were looted by the Malik Kafur forces in the 13^th Century. Bronze statues of Natarajar, Ardhanarishwarar, Lingodbhavar, Bhogasakthi Amman, Mahavishnu, Ganapathy, Tripurantakar, Bhikshadanar etc. were described with exact measurements in the inscriptions. The most notable bronze statue was of Dakshinamoorthy’s, which had the Banyan tree and the Shishyas. Bringing out such detail in a bronze statue is only possible by the artisans of Chozhas. Unfortunately, most of the bronze statues were looted and we have only Natarajar, Raja Raja Chozhan and his queen Lokamadevi’s bronze statue in the temple.

There are many such surprising information engraved in the inscriptions of the Rajarajecharam. One should learn a lot from Raja Raja Chozhan that despite of such reputation as a king, he always kept himself grounded when it comes to deal with his people, his service to the temples and to the Lord. That’s what make him an immortal even after a millennium. Raja Raja Chozhan inscribed his name as ‘Shivapadasekaran’, meaning worshipping Lord Shiva’s feet. More such inspiring facts and innovative techniques of our ancestors is what making our Big Rajarajecharam stand strong.

Inscription Image: instagram/thanjavur_official

Yours East Gaterr

Rajarajeshwaram - The pinnacle of Chozha architecture - 3

Rajarajeshwaram aka Brihadheeshwara temple in Thanjavur has undergone many constructive and destructive interference since its inception. It survived and seen growth in various kings’ and dynasties of the rule. Even though every structure in the temple has its own story, they are built in different periods by different kings in their tenure which can be identified through the styles and details of the sculpture and artworks in the shrines.

Sthula Lingam on a calm evening

 

Thanjavur - Home of many dynasties

Thanjavur Sheltered the Nayaks, Pandyas, Sultanate, Marathas and Britishers other than the Chozha dynasty. During these many different rulers’ periods, this magnum opus of Arulmozhi Varman had gone through many changes.

Before reading about what were the original structures that were originally constructed by Raja Raja Chozhan, I’d like to give you a glimpse of different rulers and the period they were prominent in Thanjavur

Timeline of Thanjai

We all just made a picture in our mind that Thanjavur means Chozhas and Marathas will flash in our minds. But Thanjavur as a whole town/city or a capital during those times was a major attraction for various rulers to invade and loot. Thankfully the successors were always adding culture, architecture and wealth to Thanjavur. The only barbaric invasion was of Malik Kafur’s attack, which almost destroyed unique artistic sculptures and the building of Brihadheeshwara temple and also looted the granary and the bloodshed is unimaginable.

Raja Raja Chozhan's Nandi which is near Varahi Amman's shrine

All these incidents made Thanjavur what it is today now. Since Brihadheeshwara temple is the easily accessible one to reflect the influence of these invasions or taking over the throne, again and again, people and the rulers have contributed much more to it. Raja Raja Chozhan had something in mind and made this magnificent temple in the first place. Later on the Pandya kings, Nayaks and the Marathas added much more to it. In these intervals of change of powers, the temple had lost many of its important idols, shrines and the deities inside which Arulmozhi Varman, his architects and the people have made and contributed.

Raja Raja Chozhan's Rajarajecharam

This post will talk about the original structures and shrines made by Raja Raja Chozhan and the later editions by various kings. To begin with the creator of this marvellous temple to Lord Shiva, Arulmozhi Varman actually built the present day ‘Rajarajan Thiruvayil’ (entrance/Gopuram), the Srivimanam, Chandikeshwara Shrine to the north of Srivimanam and the 36 Parivara Devatas shrines were the original structures built by the Raja Raja Chozhan. The rest of the structures which we see today are later additions to what he made originally. 

Keralanthakan Vayil/Gopuram

Even the ‘Keralanthakan Thiruvayil’ was built by himself but was planned after he came back with a victory after invading ‘Kaanthaloor Saalai’ which is near Thiruvananthapuram.

Pandiyan King's Ulagu Muzhudhum Udaiya Nachiyar

The next major addition in the temple was the Amman shrine, which is known as the Brihannayaki or Periyanayaki Amman. Major addition as well as the very first important intervention in the temple. Even before this intervention by a Pandiyan King whose name is not available even in the inscriptions in this temple that he had built and also inscribed his order about building this temple.

Amman Shrine built by a Pandiyan King

Even before building this, it is believed that Rajarajeshwaram might have undergone severe destruction. This Amman shrine is built around the 14^th century. The Pandiyan King who built this shrine named the goddess as “Ulagu Muzhudhum Udaiya Nachiyar” (உலகு முழுதும் உடைய நாச்சியார்) which somehow translates to Goddess who has the whole world.

The artistic additions of Nayak kings

Most of the creative and artistic additions were mostly contributed by the Nayak rulers.

The most important addition of Nayak rulers to the Magnum opus of Chozha was the Lord Subramanya Shrine, built by the king Sevappa Nayak, an ardent Shaivite among the other Nayak rulers of Thanjavur. The name of the sculptor of this shrine is “Adhiraveesi Aasari” and overlooked by “Veerayya Nayakkar”. The most beautiful and artistic shrine of Lord Subramanya is an important addition to this temple.

Sculpturally beautiful Lord Subramanya Shrine

• The Nandi Mandapam which shelters the biggest Nandi is built by Nayak rulers

Nandi Mandapam by Nayak

• The Artha Mandapam and Maha Mandapam of the Srivimanam were built by the Brahmichi Nayak during Sevappa Nayak’s rule. This can be supported with the help of Vijayanagar style pillars found inside these Mandapams.

• The present-day Nataraja shrine and the Mandapam adjoining it was built by Moorthy Amman, wife of Sevappa Nayak.

Natraja Shrine

• The Mandapam adjoining Lord Subramanya Shrine is built by Mallappa Nayak. This can be figured out with the help of a carving of Mallappa Nayaka found in the Mandapam. Mallappa Nayak aka Bethamallar was the eldest one among the siblings Sevappa Nayak.

• The Moorthy Amman Mandapam and Mallappa Nayak Mandapam are built around 1532 CE.

 Ganapathys' of Rajarajeshwaram

Lord Ganapathy Shrine built by Serfoji King II

• Lord Ganapathys’ shrines in the temple is another important contributions.

• Lord Ganapathy installed by Raja Raja Chozhan is the one in the southwest corner next to the Nruthi Shrine which is a Parivara Devatas shrine. In front of that, there is a separate shrine built for Lord Ganapathy which was built by Maratha King Serfoji II in the year 1801.

• Another Ganapathy in the front Mandapam of the Srivimanam is known as the “Arumozhi Ganapathy”, in which “Arumozhi" refers to the name of Raja Raja Chozha. Most of the inscriptions in the temple carry Raja Raja Chozhan’s name as “Arumozhi” only.

Varahi Amman

The small temple of Varahi Amman on the southern side of the temple was built around the 20^th century. They found this Varahi being partly covered in the soil. Based on some in-situ details this Varahi should have been the part of the Sapta Kanni Mathas in the temple, for which the shrine was located in the backside to the present day Varahi shrine, currently which is being used as a mini-museum.

Varahi Amman Shrine

Karuvurar Shrine

The Karuvurar Shrine in the north behind Srivimanam was built during the 20^th century only. Some say that Karuvurar was the Guru of Raja Raja Chozhan, but there is no proof of both lived at the same time. This shrine is located behind the Srivimanam, adjacent to the Lord Subramanya Shrine.

All these are the important additions to the original Rajarajeshwaram that Arulmozhi Varman made. However, all these improvisations of various kings of different dynasties never disturbed the original fabric of the temple.

Stay tuned for such interesting information about this wonderful work of Raja Raja Chozhan!!!

P.S: The information being shared here is referred from the book "Rajarajecharam" by 'Kudavayil Balasubramaniam'.
Photos by my friends Thilakesh, Asiq and Guruprasath. 

Yours East Gaterr

Rajarajeshwaram - The pinnacle of Chozha architecture - 2

Whenever I see Brihadheeshwara temple, every single time I feel like seeing this masterpiece for the first time. Raja Raja Chozhan’s vision and his people made his dream come true. He made all the Stapathis who worked for the temple to fall in love with their works. Also, these kinds of art and architecture almost reflect the importance given to the economic activities as well.

Rajarajeshwaram and myths

Rajarajeshwaram holds many secrets. Many myths and rumours revolve around this majestic beauty. These rumours are somehow strongly believed even now.

Rajarajeshwaram

To start with, I’ll talk about the myths from the top of the Srivimanam to the bottom.

Single piece - 80 tons

The most common myth is that the big round stone on the top of the temple is a single stone weighing 80 tons. It is also believed that the stone was donated by an old woman called ‘Azhagi’, who couldn’t help the workers while building and offered people buttermilk without any expectations and finally asked the workers to use this big round stone which was believed to be there near her house.

The reality is different. Many authoritative researchers and scholars of the Rajarajeshwaram have examined the stone and found it to be resembling a big round stone which is actually eight pieces of stone put together. They have also found the joints of the pieces.

People still believe that it is a single massive stone and Raja Raja Chozhan built a huge ramp in front of the temple to the top in order to put that stone which weighs 80 tons using elephants and wooden planks to pull it up to the level.

Where is the shadow?

The second popular myth is about the shadow of the temple. The shadow of the Brihadheeshwara temple actually falls in the ground. Some say because of the structure of the Srivimanam, the shadow cascades itself in the structures as it is constructed wider from top to bottom. But the fact is nothing like that happens, the shadow falls on the ground every day. 

Brihadheeshwara Temple

Another story is that there were more trees were nearby the Srivimanam many years ago, so the shadow fell on the trees. Even today we can see the shadow of the Srivimanam falling in the ground. We can enjoy standing in the shadow of the Srivimanam in the temple in reality.

Growing Nandi?!

Another common rumour is about the Nandi. People believe that the Nandi in the temple is actually growing. The reality is disappointing for such believers actually. No logic, no base and nothing true about this rumour. Just because the size of the Nandi in this temple is big, it doesn’t mean that this Nandi is growing. People might find it different every time when they look at the Nandi.

Nandi

Nandi decorated on a Pradhosham

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanjavur to Madurai - Secret tunnel in the moat?

Coming out of the temple complex, we find a moat that runs around the temple. I believed people saying that this moat has some secret tunnel which connects us to the temple pond of Madurai Meenakshi Amman temple. Growing up with this rumour always made me stare at the moat which is totally covered with dense bushes now. I read somewhere that there were crocodiles and snakes in these moats earlier. I was eager to travel through the tunnel and just disappointed when I know it was actually a rumour.

The moat around the temple

Politics & Brihadheeshwara

Politics doesn’t let Brihadheeshwara escape from this rumour. Powerful politicians believe that if some politicians enter this temple, they will lose power. Sometimes I’ve heard people say that politicians even die once they visit Brihadheeshwara temple. I wish this one happens for real so that I could take all the greedy politicians to the temple at one shot and enjoy. 

Rearview of the Srivimanam

Overall most of the common people believe all these rumours and when they actually come and see the temple, all these rumours only comes to their minds. Nobody realizes the cultural, historical and architectural significance of the temple. The artwork, sculptures, inscriptions and the scale of the Srivimanam becomes hidden facts behind the rumours. 

To make Arulmozhi Varman’s dream of building a temple to reach the heights of sky to Lord Shiva true, there were many important people. Raja Raja Chozhan addressed everybody’s effort and credited them for this contribution.

One should always remember these given names when we talk of Rajarajeshwaram. 

• Chief architect – Veerachozhan Kunjaramallan/Rajaraja Perunthachan
• Deputy architect – Madhurantakan/Nithavinodha Perunthachan
• Assistant architect – Lathi Sadaiyan/Kandaraditha Perunthachan
• Administrative officer – Aaditan Suryan/Thennavan Moovendha Velan
• Head priest – Pavanapidaraan
• Sculptor (inscriptions) – Sathankudi Vellalan Ravibalurudaiyan
• Raja Raja Chozhan’s sister – Kundhavai Piratiyar
• Raja Raja Chozha’s son – Rajendra Chozhan
• Army chief – Senapathy Krishnan Raman aka Mummudi Chozha Brihmamarayan
• Rajaguru of Raja Raja Chozhan – Eshaana Shivapandithar
• Rajaguru of Rajendra Chozhan – Sarva Shivapandithar

Raja Raja Chozhan’s name will be remembered forever. Other than these people, there were the soldiers, town councils and many individuals, who helped Arulmozhi Varman to successfully execute his dream. This temple helped in many other things to boost up the spirituality, art and architecture and the economy of the Chozha dynasty to flourish. 

Raja Raja Chozhan is definitely the great emperor we wish to see. He inscribed each and every name of the people who worked for his dream to come true. Each and every name of the workers, volunteers, donors and many others are still in the inscriptions. This reflects that Arulmozhi varman is a true emperor, who loved, acknowledged his people’s work and that still makes Rajarajeshwaram stand strong.

Yours East Gaterr

Rajarajeshwaram - The pinnacle of Chozha architecture - 1

Rajarajeshwaram or Brihadheeshwara temple aka Big Temple of Thanjavur, is one of the magnum opus of the great Chozha Emperor Raja Raja Chozhan. The Kumbabhishekam of this temple is going to happen of 5^th February, 2020. I’m very much excited to witness the divine occasion of this great temple. Also on the other hand, excited to share with you that I’d be posting very interesting truths and history of this architectural marvel of Raja Raja Chozhan.

The Rajarajeshwaram

This temple once was partly destructed by Malik Kafur, which is very shocking that, how this barbaric Sultanate eunuch chief reached and looted Brihadheeshwara temple and Srirangam which were such remote place at that time.

Rajarajeshwaram v/s Taj Mahal

Our ancestors were such geniuses and great scientist who used amazing techniques to build great temples. People who consider The Taj Mahal as a world wonder have not seen my Brihadheeshwara temple it seems. It took 17 years for Shah Jahan to build the decorated Taj Mahal with white marbles, whereas it just took 6 years for my great King Chozhan to build this real wonder of the world, not just decorating but also showcasing the skills and the rich arts practices of that period with many interesting sculptures that were made in hard granite stones and beautiful murals as well. These are just some simple facts about the temple. This temple has much more mind boggling science and traditional building techniques.

Thanjavur & Chozhas

Vijayalaya Chozha, the first king of this dynasty, succeeded the Mutharayars, a feudal king under the Pallavas dynasty in 850 A.D. Vijayalaya Chozhan also established a temple for Goddess Nisumbasudhini in Thanjavur after that. Since then Thanjavur always remained as a strong capital for the Chozha dynasty for at least 200 years. During these centuries, this dynasty spread up to the Tungabadhra River in the north, Sri Lanka in the south and Maldives and Lakshwadeep in the southwest.

Karuvurar Thevar, Shaivite saint and Guru of Emperor Raja Chozhan, describes Thanjavur as "Inji Soozh Thanjai" (இஞ்சி சூழ் தஞ்சை) in his 'Thiruvisaipa', which means that the main city of Thanjavur was surrounded by a moat and a fortified wall during the 11^th century. We can still see the moat that runs surrounding the temple as well covering some part of the city. But it is in bad shape now. The city was getting its water supply from the Vadavar River.

Rajarajiicharam

The name of the temple originally called by the Chozhas is “Rajarajiicharam”, as per the inscriptions found from the temple. Rajarajeshwaram is the correct grammatical pronunciation of the name. The name Brihadheeshwara temple is derived from 'Brihath & Ishwaram' which indicates the big size Lingam of this temple. Another reason that this Rajarajeshwaram got its ‘Big temple’ name is because of the tallest Vimana.

  

The main architect of Rajarajeshwaram as found from the inscriptions of this temple is Veerachozha Kunjaramallan – Rajaraja Perunthachan.

Location & Panchabhootam

Location of the temple and moat around the city

The temple is located at the heart of the Thanjavur city, which was then the capital of Chozha dynasties. The temple’s location seems like a strategic location. As per the local legends, no natural calamities can harm the temple. There are 5 temples of Lord Shiva, each one dedicated to one Panchabhootam (5 Elements), this Brihadheeshwara temple in Thanjavur is one temple unlike others where all the 5 Panchabhootam are integrated.

Foundation of Rajarajeshwaram

The foundation of the temple is another surprising factor. The height of the Vimana of this temple is 216 ft. whereas the foundation is just 6 ft. The foundation of this temple is built in lime deposit, because of this which the temple can survive any strong earthquakes as well. The lime deposit underneath the temple will adjust itself to the changes of tectonic plates which is caused by earthquakes. The famous Thanjavur Thalayatti Bommais’ represents this scientific model of the temple. The special Thanjavur toys comes to rest after shaking for a while, that’s how the foundation of the Brihadheeshwara temple also works.

There are many rumors that still prevails among the people about this temple. Next post will elaborately talk about the rumors that revolve the temple. Stay tuned!!!

Yours East Gaterr