Remnants of Ancient Pallavas in the Glorious Capital of the Cholas

The main reason that Tamil Nadu is known for its great temples and the marvelous architecture began when Mahendravarma Pallava built a temple carved out from the rock in Mandagapattu. Mahendravarma Pallava was also known as Vichitra-Chittan for him being a unique innovator. The kings after Mahendravarma Pallava innovated more creative ideas and built different types of temples. Temples in rock (Mamallapuram, Mandagapattu, Seeyamangalam and other cave temples), temples in sandstone (Kanchi Kailasanathar, Vaikunda Perumal Temple) etc.

Pallavas can rightly be called as the fathers of temple architecture when it comes to Tamil Nadu. But people of Tamil Nadu almost forgot this dynasty.

Cholas became powerful in the 9^th Century winning over the Pallavas who were declining because of constant wars with the Chalukyas from the north and Pandiyas from the South. Before that Pallavas ruled over the large area of present day Tamil Nadu comprising the areas of present day Thanjavur, Trichy and Pudukkottai districts. We can see ancient rock-cut cave temples and other structural temples with the design elements of the Pallava style in the above mentioned areas.

Towards the end of their rule, Pallavas realized the necessity of building and strengthening a capital towards south of their headquarter Kanchi. They chose the fertile lands between the many tributaries of the Cauvery River. Nandivarman II, is credited with the construction of this southern base. This new base for Pallavas was built in and around the present villages of Kandiyur and Veerasingampettai near Thiruvaiyaru. This base of the Pallavas were known as Nandipuram, Aayirathali (Temple of 1000 Lingams). This Nandipuram finds it mention only during and after the period of Nandivarman II. Also some other Chola inscriptions of Parantaka I, Rajaraja I and Rajendra I talks about few other Chola temples that were functioning at that point of time. Such temples are now only found in the inscriptions.

The first literary mention of Thanjavur in the hymn of Thiruvizhimizhalai by Appar (7^th Century) gives us the name of a temple called ‘Thanjai Thalikulathu Mahadevar’ and in the hymns of Azhwars sung praising Lord Vishnu of Thanjai Maamani Kovil. All these mentions shows us there were temples that pre-dates the Chola period temples. But today because of the ravages of time and fortunate cultural rejuvenation that happened during the period of Cholas, Nayaks and the Marathas of Thanjavur, these ancient temples reflects only the later historic fabric.

When Rajendra shifted his capital from Thanjavur to Gangaikonda Cholapuram, Thanjavur lost its prominence as an administrative center. After the decline of Cholas, Nayaks were appointed to rule Thanjavur and they brought back the charm to Thanjavur. They reconstructed many temples and also built new temples using the materials and debris from the dilapidated structures. 

Pallava Simha Pillar at the Mahamandapam of Brihadeeshwara Temple

Even though Thanjavur was celebrated by the Cholas, Nayaks and the Marathas, it still shelters the remnants of the Pallavas graciously. Temples that were reconstructed during the Nayak period carry these fragments of glorious past of Thanjavur before the Cholas made it as their capital. Even the Brihadeeshwara temple, pinnacle of Chola temple architecture shelters a Pallava Simha pillar at the Mahamandapam which was repaired and reconstructed by the Nayaks of Thanjavur.

Pallava Simha Pillar at Narasimha Perumal Temple, Palliagraharam

Thanjai Maamani Kovil is a Divyadesam, abode of lord Vishnu sanctified by the Azhwars. Three temples located back to back at the Palliagraharam on the banks of river Vennaru. The first temple in the line is of Narasimha Perumal where a Simha Pillar of Pallava period is put to inappropriate use in the temple’s well here. 

Ganesha Sculpture at Konkaneshwarar Temple

Konkaneshwarar temple in the west main street is a Nayak period temple and later renovated during the Marathas rule. This temple shelters 2 beautiful sculptures of Pallavas style. One is the sculpture of Lord Ganesha and another is of Chandikeshwara.

Chandikeshwara Sculpture at Konkaneshwara Temple

There are temples in and around Thanjavur that still bears the inscriptions of the later Pallava kings. While celebrating the grandeur of the Cholas and others, we often ignore these fragments of history of Pallavas that added more wealth in the form of temple architecture of Tamil Nadu.

Yours East Gaterr

War Trophies of Rajendra Chola

Another feather in the Chola’s cap is the great King Rajendra Chola. He is none other than the son of Rajaraja Chola. Just like his ancestors, Rajendra was very successful in the battles that he fought and ferreted his enemies. He along with his army vanquished his enemies and bought home his exemplary war trophies.

Valorous Years

Being a Chola helped Rajendra’s growth in the already organized administration, powerful bureaucracy, strong army and the naval force. He emerged as any other victorious Chola King.

Before ascending the throne Rajendra ‘s war with the Ganga Clan, Nolambas, Tulu, Konkans, Kodavas, Telugu speaking region, and also the Chera country made his enemies incapacitated.  Rajendra Chola was the only king to be abundantly blessed by Vijayalakshmi as well as Durga which is evident from his back to back success over different regions.

Chalukya's Nandi in Vada-Kailayam within Gangaikonda Cholapuram Temple

Apart from being victorious, Rajendra’s war trophies made him stand out. His attraction towards victory is synonymous as he got the idols of Mahishasura Mardini from his war expeditions. It is not just Rajendra, but all his ancestors worshipped this fierce form of Durga before going for a war. 

During the first ten years of his rule, he displayed his courage and valor in the wars that he fought. In the 11th Century Rajendra’s army defeated Kings from the North and reached the banks of the river Ganges and the army was made to carry the holy water in golden pots to the new capital Gangaikonda Cholapuram. In fact the title Gangaikonda Cholan refers to the King who brought the holy Ganges to the South.

In fact, Rajendra went along with the army only up to some extent, rest of the conquest was headed by his chief commander only. With some inscriptional evidence, we get to know that Rajendra welcomes his victorious chief commander at Mahendragiri. To commemorate his victory, they together install a Vijayasthambam at the top of Mahendragiri.

More War Trophies in brief

The  war trophies are placed in various places in and around Gangaikonda Cholapuram. The main temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram shelters few of the important war trophies of Rajendra. A Sowrapeedam from the Nolambas is a beautiful artefact. Scholars assign it as a creation of 9th century. A lotus like shape spreaded over a square platform, Ashta-Dik-Palakas adorning in each corner while Arunan drive the chariot of Lord Surya which has seven horses. This is one of the sculpturally richest depiction of Suryapeedam.

Chalukya's Mahishasura Mardhini at Reddy Street in Poor State of Maintenance

The Mahamandapam of the Gangaikonda Cholapuram temple shelters a Durga from Nolambas, Lord Surya (standing posture) from the Chalukyas and another significant sculpture of Saraswati from the Palas (placed right in front of the main Shrine of lord Shiva). Other than this, the Nandi in the Amman shrine on the northern side of the temple, twenty handed Mahishasuramardini from the Chalukyas enshrined separately are the notable war trophies within the temple complex.

Now coming back to the small villages around the Gangaikonda Cholapuram temple, the next closest war trophy Mahishasura Mardini is sheltered and worshipped under a huge tree in the Reddy Street. It is saddening to see such artefacts of historic significance being maintained in a poor state. The next war trophy is the Mahishasura Mardini of Manmalai. This sculpture resembles the craftsmanship of the Guptas, probably from the Madhya Pradesh region.

Manmalai Durga - Redstone Sculpture - Gupta's Craftsmanship from Madhya Pradesh

Another treasure trove of war trophies are under the ownership of the ASI and is sheltered in a village called Sengamedu. These sculptures are now worshipped by the local villagers. These sculptures are from the Kalinga dynasty. Two pairs of Bhairava and Bhairavi sculptures, and other Mahishasura Mardini sculptures are worshipped and maintained in good condition. 

Sengamedu - Sculptures from the Kalinga Desa (Orissa)

Another sculpture of Chalukyas Mahishasura Mardini is placed in an Azhagar temple in a village called Saluppai which is five kilometers to the north of the Gangaikonda Cholapuram temple.

War Trophies at Tiruloki Temple

Thiruloki is a small village located near the Thirupanandhal temple and is 20 kms from the Gangaikonda Cholapuram Temple. Thiruloki has two important Shiva temples which give important historic information through its inscription. Thiruloki is also a derived name from Trilokya Maadevi Chaturvedi Mangalam, which was in existence from the period of Rajaraja I, since it is named after one of his wives.

Rishbhaarudar from the Chalukyas

Apart from being patronized by both father and son duo both the temples in this village hold a special place after the Rajendra’s Ganges expedition. Scholars say that Rajendra Chola brought the waters of Ganges to this temple in the first place and then took the holy water from here to the new capital. Also the Sundareswarar temple shelters two beautiful war trophies. One is the Rishabhaarudar, exquisitely sculpted in a single stone.  Lord Shiva and Parvati seated on a pedestal with a decorative arch mounted on the back of the Nandi. This beautiful creation is said to be of Nolamba’s craftsmanship. Another is the gorgeous sculpture of the Rathi Manmadhan, which is under worship can be found in the Mahamandapam of the temple. Dr. Kudavyil Balasubramanian says that this sculpture is of Lord Kartikeya and Deivanai from the North. Whether this is Lord Kartikeya or Manmadan, this is completely unique and artistically elegant. 

Rathi Manmadan (as Worshipped)

 

Apart from all these sculptures, there are some more war trophies that were brought from various parts of the ancient Indian kingdoms. 45 pillars from the Nolambas (Some part of Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh) were used to build the corridor around the Then-Kailayam Shrine at the Thiruvaiyaru Temple. There is a Gangaikonda Vinayagar from the Palas being worshipped at the Nageswaran Temple of Kumbakonam. Pala dynasty’s Natrajar at the temple of Melakadambur and Durga of Kollampudur are also the part of victory trophies that were brought into the Chola kingdom.

Majestic Mahishasura Mardhini at Sengamedu

All these war trophies speaks the value of the great success that Rajendra has achieved and further purifying his capital with the holy waters of the Ganges. Some of these beautiful sculptures are under worship which somehow are safeguarded in a way, but few other important sculptures are in bad conditions. One should definitely pay a visit to all these war trophies in order to experience the pride that Rajendra would have had when he brought all those to his kingdom. It was overwhelming for me to personally visit those trophies. I sincerely hope this blog post motivates the reader to at least go visit one of the war trophies of Rajendra The Great.

Yours East Gaterr
 

Kulottunga III and The East Gopuram, Thiruvarur

The majestic temple of Tyagarajar, the huge chariot of the temple etc. are THE identity of the ancient city of Thiruvarur. It is also the birthplace of the Carnatic Trinity. The historic and religious significance of the temple goes on and on, sheltering two shrines that was sung and praised by the Shaivite Saints, Asia’s biggest Chariot, the shrine of Tyagaraja, Kamalakshi (one of the Pancha-Akshis), generous donations and infrastructural additions by Cholas and the legends of Muchukunda Chakravarthy and Manuneedhi Cholan adds more glory to the temple. 

Rajagopuram built by Kulottunga III

As per some Shaiva beliefs, it is believed that Aaroor is much older than the Chidambaram temple. This belief adds more to the religious importance of the temple. While the central sanctum is a construction of Adithya I’s period, the other sanctums around the temple have seen rapid developments and more additions by different dynasties that ruled the Chola country later. Even there are sculptures that belongs to the period of Pallavas. The shrine of Tyagaraja (Somaskanda brought to this world by Muchukunda Chakravarthy from Indran – as per the legend) was constructed by Rajendra Chola I. The inscription in the shrine is the only place where Rajendra Chola I clearly inscribes his birthdate as Aadi – Aarudra along with his father’s Aippasi – Sadhayam. Thus, this shrine plays an important role in providing us with an important historic information.

Now, what we are concerned in this post about this great temple is the East Rajagopuram. This Gopuram, with all the design elements, is assigned to Kulottunga III’s construction. Kulottunga III was one of the remarkable king among the Cholas. To commemorate one of his greatest victory, he built this Rajagopuram with the wealth that he won from the war. 

Eesaana Shiva, Guru of Kulottunga III

Kulottunga III ruled from 1178-1218. During his reign, somewhere before 1180, he fought against Veerapandiyan who was supported by the forces from Ceylon. Unfortunately, Veerapandiyan was defeated by the valorous Chola King. Kulottunga III installed a Jayasthambam and also deputed Vikrama Pandiyan to rule over the Pandiyan Kingdom. Later in 1188, Again Veerapandiyan fought against Kulottunga just to lose again. After sometime, Vikrama Pandiyan’s son Sadaiyavarman Kulasekaran waged a war against Kulottunga III around the year 1202. Sadaiyavarman fled the battleground and also Madurai was razed down to the ground. Followed by this Kulottunga won over the Chera kingdom and coronated him as the King of all the three kingdoms. He did Veerabhishekam and Vijayabhishekam in Madurai and added a title “Tribhuvana Veera Devan” to himself.

Kulottunga was so courageous and at the same time he proved that he was humble in front of Madurai’s Chokkanathar. He organized a procession of the deity and worshipped the lord in the streets of Madurai with the gold, pearls and gems that he won from the treasury of Madurai and the wealth he got from the war. From the Meikeerthi of this humble king, we get to know that he used this gold, gems and wealth to build the Rajagopuram and also gilded the shrine of Vanmikanathar and also renovated the ancient Devasiriyan Mandapam in the Thiruvarur temple. 

Tribhuvana Veera Devan - Kulottunga III

Kulottunga III also installs his own sculpture along with his Guru Eesaana Shiva aka Someswarar in this Rajagopuram. He is the only one among the Cholas to add his own sculpture in the Gopurams that he constructs in different temples. He gives more importance to the temple by first time inscribing his title of “Tribhuvana Veera Devan” here. This brief inscription of the glorious King is engraved as if Lord Shiva himself talks about his valor and mentions him as “Nam Thozhan” (meaning ‘My Friend’). This exalted status was bestowed to only Sundarar (One of the Shaivite Quartet) by Lord Shiva himself. With the details mentioned, this inscription was engraved somewhere around the September of 1201. Thus, the construction of the Rajagopuram must’ve happened around the same year.

Thus, this Rajagopuram is not just a simple Gopuram. This was built to commemorate the greatest victory of the King along with many beautiful sculptures that decorates the Gopuram amidst which the Humble King himself stands with his Guru Eesaana Shivar in different Devakoshtas. This Rajagopuram stands as a witness to the victory of the King as well as a testimony to the importance given to Guru, art and architecture that was patronized along with the growth of temples.

 Reference: Thiruvarur Thirukkovil by Kudavayil Balasubramanian

Yours East Gaterr

Madras Day - A Short Note - Takeaways from the session of Dr. Chithra Madhavan

Madras day is celebrated on 22^nd of August every year since 2004, to commemorate the day when Madras was bought by the East India Company from the viceroy Damarla Venkatadri Nayaka of the Vijayanagar Empire.

Since heritage and history of Madras being given more attention now because of the efforts of few eminent scholars, historians like Sriram V, Dr. Chithra Madhavan and few other heritage trust who have been conducting some sessions through which the City's valuable history is being disseminated to the common people.

Bronze Image of Thirukachi Nambi

Since Madras saw a rapid growth and became a metro city, it makes a perfect case study for the discipline of urban archaeology. This busy metro city secretly shelters (the masses miss to experience) antiquities of more than thousand years old heritage. The city needs more people who have an eye to encourage the different layers of history that it offers. Even though it is the ‘Cultural’ and ‘Carnatic’ Capital of Tamilnadu, other facets of the same city awaits to enjoy the limelight.

On the occasion of this year’s (2021) Madras Day, Press Institute of India conducted a session of which the speaker was Dr. Chithra Madhavan, who as usual tried her best to overwhelm us with loads of unknown information about the temples in and around Madras with the limited time given to her. I was fortunate enough to attend this session and ended up adding number of temples to visit next time when I’m in “Madras”. 

Bronze Image of Thirumazhisai Azhwar

Dr. Chithra Madhavan began her session with the history of Varadaraja Perumal Temple at Poonamalle. Poonamallee is the birthplace of Thirukachi Nambi, one important Vaishnavite Acharyar. The glimpse about the Navagraha Sthalams in Porur and Poonamallee was a surprising information when the speaker discussed about the Vaitheeshwaran Temple of Poonamallee. Jagannatha Perumal Temple and Othandeshwarar Temple at Thirumazhisai, Sundararaja Perumal Temple at Sitharkadu, Soundarya Narayana Perumal Temple at Pattarai Perumbudur and Thiru-Evvul Veera Raghava Perumal Temple (Thiruvallur) were discussed in detail alongwith the information about the unique sculptures and inscriptions of the respective temples.

Dr. Chithra Madhavan explaining about Vishwaksenar, often misunderstood as Vinayagar or Thumbikkai Azhwar

Within the limited time, the speaker could cover only the temples in outskirts of the city. Imagine how much more information we could get if Dr. Chithra had time to talk about the heritage hotspots within the city.

Fortunately, as far as I know, Madras has a working heritage committee to safeguard the ancient fabric of the city. Most of the people obviously knows about Mylapore, Triplicane, Santhome etc. Thiruvotriyur was a buzzing spot when Rajendra Chozha was stationed there to protect the limits of Chozha Kingdom.

Although the attention of the masses settles with the colonial beauty of Madras, there is a lot of scope to look beyond the layer of colonial heritage. This modern yet ancient city is bestowed with tangible heritage forms from Pallavas, Cholas, Nayaks upto the Britishers. Channelizing the crowd and bringing all other lesser-known facets of the heritage of this busy metro City would result in sustaining the heritage as well as the livelihood of those who are closely associated with it.

Link to the session's video: https://youtu.be/TD9qUQVnzKc

There is much more to MADRAS!

Yours East Gaterr