Ayyan Kulam Shilpa Mandapam - Parthiban Kanavu!

Hundreds and thousands of articles on the rich cultural heritage of Thanjavur is not enough to let the world know the secrets of the cultural heartland. As I have mentioned earlier, Thanjavur is the only historical city with an unbroken history for more than a millennium. From the golden period of Cholas, Thanjavur is known for its well-planned urban layout and planning. Cholas effectively managed the water systems of Thanjavur. When Nayaks of Thanjavur revived the Chola Desam (Chola Country) they got inspired by the rules, administration, planning and effective management of the Cholas. Nayaks revived the infrastructure of the city.

One of the remarkable contributions is the development of water tanks by the Nayaks. Sevvappa Nayak created a tank behind the Brihadeeshwara Temple, to filter and supply water to the palace and the rest of the city. It was known by the name ‘Sevappa Nayakkan Vari’. Unfortunately that tank was destroyed by rapid constructions that happened in the area. The area is still known by the same name. Nayaks also built another water tank known as the ‘Ayyan Kulam’, named after the illustrious Chief Minister for the 3 Nayak Kings, Govinda Deekshitar. He is one person who needs to be gratefully celebrated for the development of the city.

Part of the water Channel -  Shivaganga Tank

Outlet of the water channel - Ayyan Kulam

Ayyan Kulam in the recent past was in a bad state. It was used as a dump yard by the resident of the area. It is one important tank of the whole water management system of the city. It was part of the Konganeshwarar Temple, which is of the Nayak period. This tank is equipped with a Mandapam which houses beautiful painted stucco works and murals of Nayak Period. I came across this beautiful Mandapam only before a week. There is a Tamil Inscription near the entrance of this Mandapam. It says that this Mandapam belongs to the Konganeshwarar Temple and during the festive season, the processional deities of the temple were kept and worshipped here. Another hisotric importance of this tank is that the historic water channel outlet is still found. With this, officials were able to track the water channel dating back to Nayak period which runs from the Shivaganga tank and shares its water with the important residents enroute.

The Tamil Inscription - Ayyan Kulam

This tank is currently being renovated under the Jal Shakti initiative of the Central Government. Though this is a happy news since the tank is being revived, but the fear is about losing its historic fabric. Even the beautiful stucco works are going to be repainted under this initiative. I am at least glad that few bloggers and I could click this with its original fabric. The stucco works consists of the Kailaya Dharshan (Shiva and Parvati with Lord Ganesha and Karthikeya among other celestial beings in the Kailash), Sri Rama Pattabhishekam, Dasavatars of Lord Vishnu and other murals.

Mural on the Vault

Sri Rama Pattabhishekam Panel

Recently I completed reading the Kalki’s one of the masterpiece ‘Parthiban Kanavu’. In which, Parthiba Chola shows his imaginary murals painted in a secret room which is not accessible for everyone and is kept closed. Parthiba Chola explains this to his son Vikrama Chola, saying that the murals were his great dream to be achieved. Parthiba Chola asks Vikrama Chola to achieve this dream of ruling an independent country and also express his desires that the great Chola dynasty should rule the countries across oceans.

View of the first and second vault

One main reason for me to relate this artistically beautiful yet poor Mandapam with the Chithra Mandapam of Parthiban Kanavu is that the unknown and untold history of this Mandapam. This Mandapam was closed and dark when I first noticed the beautiful stucco works. I tried peeking through the window. After few days, they removed the door of the Mandapam. I went inside and checked the Mandapam. The structure is divided into 4 vaults. Each vault have different themes. The fourth vault is not accessible because of bats flying and hanging there. Though you might feel that this correlation is exaggerated, but the stucco art at this Mandapam is one best example of the art work of the Nayaks. Also you get to witness this historic beautiful art work so close unlike other places.

Fourth Vault - Not Accessible

One of the main reason that Thanjavur is still in the top of the cultural destinations is because of the continuity that was maintained by the scholarly Nayaks. I am yet to uncover many such gems of Thanjavur.

Yours East Gaterr