Treat to Our Eyes - Kan Niraindha Perumal Temple, Malaiyadipatti

Tamil Nadu have many surprises for heritage and spiritual connoisseurs. Millennium old temple and their evolution is one interesting subject to delve into. I got curious when I got to know about a cave temple, located within 40 Kms from Thanjavur. It is the Malayadipatti rock-cut cave temple of Ananta Padmanabha Swamy temple, which is known as the Kan Niraindha Perumal Temple. There is also a Shiva Temple, Vageesamudaiyar temple just adjacent to the Vishnu shrine and is older than the latter

Kan Niraindha Perumal Temple Entrance

The inscriptions in the Shiva temple addresses Dantivarma Pallavan, with which the temple can be dated to be built in the 8^th century CE. The shrine of both Lord Shiva and Vishnu are carved out of the same rock. As usual, the shrine of Lord Shiva is simple and divine, while Lord Vishnu’s shrine is the actual treat to our eyes. The shrine of Vageesamudaiyar predates the shrine of Ananta Padmanabha Swamy.

Vageesamudaiyar Shrine shelters one of the earliest Sapta Matrika panels in the temple sculptures. In the same panel, there is Veerabhadrar and Ganesha at each end. This Sapta Matrika panel is unique and is an important development aspect of this sculptural representation. There are some pillars with beautiful floral patterns and interesting inscriptions. The Chola period inscriptions addresses the deity as Vageeswara and renovations done by Sundara Chola.

Simha Pillar of Pallava Era in the sanctum of Lord Vishnu

The Vishnu shrine, facing north has a huge sanctum. The Sthala Sayana Perumal is also known as Sri Ranganathar. He could be easily 15-20 ft. in length and is similar to that of the main deity at the Thiruvananthapuram Ananta Padmanabha Swamy. This Shrine also shelters Ugra Narasimha, Hayagriva, Vaikuntanathar with his consorts Bhoo Devi and Sri Devi, Pundarikaksha Perumal, Garudan near the Perumal, Brahma from the Nabhi of the Perumal, demons Madhu and Kaitabha, Rishi Diwakara and a Lakshmi Narayana with many other processional deity.

As you enter the sanctum, you can see majestic Simha Pillars of the Pallava period. 2 Pillars in front of the Sri Ranganathar which makes the shrine to resemble that of the shrine at Thiruvananthapuram. Outside the shrine of Lord Vishnu, his consort Kamalavalli Thayar’s shrine is built by Achyutappa Nayak of the Thanjavur Nayaks. 

Sapta Kannika Panel in Vageesamudaiyar Temple

Worshipping the Lord Ananta Padmanabha here, helps one to recover from the ailments of eyes and for couple to be blessed with a child. Hayagrivar blesses the devotees for good knowledge, wisdom and education.

Coming around the area of the temple, we can climb the simple hillocks. We can see different signs being carved in the rock on ground. Then there is a butter ball like rock, under which there is again an inscription. The whole temple complex and the view from the top of the hillocks is a peaceful sight for us to relax after a breathtaking and crowd-free Dharshan of both Sri Ranganatha aka Kan Niraindha Perumal and Vageesamudaiyar.

Malayadipatti Butterball

Temples like these are partially left unexplored. People can have a relaxed Dharshan without too much crown unlike the one in Sri Rangam or in any other mainstream temple. Though this temple is located in a remote location, you can reach this temple from Chathram Bus stand of Trichy to Thuvakkudi and then change another bus from there. It is easily located when you commute by personal vehicles. One should visit this majestic shrine at least to witness the grand shrine and also for the beautiful sight from the hillocks.

Contact- Narayana Bhattar: 9944313275

Yours East Gaterr

Ayyan Kulam Shilpa Mandapam - Parthiban Kanavu!

Hundreds and thousands of articles on the rich cultural heritage of Thanjavur is not enough to let the world know the secrets of the cultural heartland. As I have mentioned earlier, Thanjavur is the only historical city with an unbroken history for more than a millennium. From the golden period of Cholas, Thanjavur is known for its well-planned urban layout and planning. Cholas effectively managed the water systems of Thanjavur. When Nayaks of Thanjavur revived the Chola Desam (Chola Country) they got inspired by the rules, administration, planning and effective management of the Cholas. Nayaks revived the infrastructure of the city.

One of the remarkable contributions is the development of water tanks by the Nayaks. Sevvappa Nayak created a tank behind the Brihadeeshwara Temple, to filter and supply water to the palace and the rest of the city. It was known by the name ‘Sevappa Nayakkan Vari’. Unfortunately that tank was destroyed by rapid constructions that happened in the area. The area is still known by the same name. Nayaks also built another water tank known as the ‘Ayyan Kulam’, named after the illustrious Chief Minister for the 3 Nayak Kings, Govinda Deekshitar. He is one person who needs to be gratefully celebrated for the development of the city.

Part of the water Channel -  Shivaganga Tank

Outlet of the water channel - Ayyan Kulam

Ayyan Kulam in the recent past was in a bad state. It was used as a dump yard by the resident of the area. It is one important tank of the whole water management system of the city. It was part of the Konganeshwarar Temple, which is of the Nayak period. This tank is equipped with a Mandapam which houses beautiful painted stucco works and murals of Nayak Period. I came across this beautiful Mandapam only before a week. There is a Tamil Inscription near the entrance of this Mandapam. It says that this Mandapam belongs to the Konganeshwarar Temple and during the festive season, the processional deities of the temple were kept and worshipped here. Another hisotric importance of this tank is that the historic water channel outlet is still found. With this, officials were able to track the water channel dating back to Nayak period which runs from the Shivaganga tank and shares its water with the important residents enroute.

The Tamil Inscription - Ayyan Kulam

This tank is currently being renovated under the Jal Shakti initiative of the Central Government. Though this is a happy news since the tank is being revived, but the fear is about losing its historic fabric. Even the beautiful stucco works are going to be repainted under this initiative. I am at least glad that few bloggers and I could click this with its original fabric. The stucco works consists of the Kailaya Dharshan (Shiva and Parvati with Lord Ganesha and Karthikeya among other celestial beings in the Kailash), Sri Rama Pattabhishekam, Dasavatars of Lord Vishnu and other murals.

Mural on the Vault

Sri Rama Pattabhishekam Panel

Recently I completed reading the Kalki’s one of the masterpiece ‘Parthiban Kanavu’. In which, Parthiba Chola shows his imaginary murals painted in a secret room which is not accessible for everyone and is kept closed. Parthiba Chola explains this to his son Vikrama Chola, saying that the murals were his great dream to be achieved. Parthiba Chola asks Vikrama Chola to achieve this dream of ruling an independent country and also express his desires that the great Chola dynasty should rule the countries across oceans.

View of the first and second vault

One main reason for me to relate this artistically beautiful yet poor Mandapam with the Chithra Mandapam of Parthiban Kanavu is that the unknown and untold history of this Mandapam. This Mandapam was closed and dark when I first noticed the beautiful stucco works. I tried peeking through the window. After few days, they removed the door of the Mandapam. I went inside and checked the Mandapam. The structure is divided into 4 vaults. Each vault have different themes. The fourth vault is not accessible because of bats flying and hanging there. Though you might feel that this correlation is exaggerated, but the stucco art at this Mandapam is one best example of the art work of the Nayaks. Also you get to witness this historic beautiful art work so close unlike other places.

Fourth Vault - Not Accessible

One of the main reason that Thanjavur is still in the top of the cultural destinations is because of the continuity that was maintained by the scholarly Nayaks. I am yet to uncover many such gems of Thanjavur.

Yours East Gaterr