Ever since I have started reading about Thanjavur during this pandemic vacation, my curiosity of learning and knowing about places and heritage structures have drastically increased. At the same time, when I see these heritage structures being covered by bushes, encroached, damaged and littered, I feel lost and sad. If this happens anywhere in Northern part of our country, it would have grabbed the attention of the masses. Unfortunately, South India lacks the notion of preserving our heritage. There is no comparison between the rich heritage of North and South India, yet South India leads the domain with its rock-cut and granite temples. It leaves one in a wonderland to just even think of how these marvels were possible around 1000 years back. Also undeniably, temples are the backbone for deciphering the history, ranging from a large scale areas like states to the miniscule level like a village or that particular village or so.
Upparigai Mandapam
Coming back to Thanjavur, which has its unbroken history from the later part of 8th Century CE up to the independence of our country. From the very point of Vijayalaya Chola making Thanjavur as the capital of Chola’s dynasty, building a temple for Nisumbasudhini (a form of goddess Durga) and losing prominence because of the shift of capital to Gangaikonda Cholapuram by Rajendra Chola and getting destructed by Maravarman Sundarapandiyan as a revenge, then the revival of the same by the Nayaks of Thanjavur and then Marathas taking over this fertile land and then losing it to the Britishers because of the political turbulence, each and every part of Thanjavur speaks its rich cultural history as well.
Rajaraja I, gave the marvel Brihadeeshwara Temple, Nayaks gave the wide and beautifully spread palace and temples, and Maratha further building temples to add spirituality and their endowments like Chatrams speaks of their charity. Throughout these turbulent political past of Thanjavur, rich literature, art forms like songs and other cultural activities are still alive in bits and pieces. Thanjavur was glowing with famous personalities and became the cultural heartland of the nation.
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| One of the Chatrams |
The traditional Saraswati Veena, Thanjavur paintings, Thanjavur toys (Thalaiaatti Bommai), Art Plates are the famous crafts that emerged from this great city. There were many other things like crops and vegetables which were in abundance due to the blessings of fertile Cauvery River. The grandest Chatrams are now in ruins. Though the structure is strong, nobody is aware of the great charities that were happening around this. Chatrams also were a social institution, where schools were also running. Few colonial buildings are also the part of unattended heritage of Thanjavur.
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| Probably a British period Bridge in an agricultural field |
Thanjavur is also a secular city, true to the meaning of the word. This city is a shelter of various communities apart from different religions. We have Tamil, Telugu, Marathis, Gujaratis and people from different part of the nation. We have Gujarati Associations, Samartha Ramadoss monasteries and many other cultural institutions in Thanjavur.
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| A Maratha Period Painting at Ellaiamman Kovil |
The lack of awareness about the real facts of heritage, absence of heritage committee and a heritage act is what makes Thanjavur weak against other famous heritage hotspots. Thanjavur is not merely a tourist spot, it is a world of history and heritage within. Lakhs of people just come to Brihadeeshwara temple, visits the palace, luckily only few visits different other temples and art galleries. Diversification of tourists with a holistic approach to show them Thanjavur with its real history aesthetics is the need of the hour. Also this will help in minimizing or stagnating the crowd of tourist in one place. Making tourists to go to the different parts of Thanjavur, where they can freely experience the rich heritage will help the local business to generate more revenue. This will enhance the living standard and the quality of the creative economies that are operating in the city as well as in rural areas.
Other than Brihadeeshwara temple and palace, Thanjavur offers wide range of temple within the city which were built during different periods. Unattended Chatrams and temples desperately needs people to listen to the small yet significant stories of those structures. Ranees Clock tower, Rajah’s hospital, old collectorate, few residences are some places of interests other than the mainstream tourist hotspots.
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| Bazaar Ramar Temple with Stucco works of Maratha Period |
Thanjavur literally needs a cultural revival. These heritage structure needs to be put in use, so that people can experience the unbroken history of this great city. The arts and crafts are still thriving and adapting based on the challenges of time. Heritage structures are the one which to be left behind. NGOs like INTACH, Marabu Foundation, Prastara etc., are the few institutions that work for the holistic approach of heritage and brings in heritage enthusiasts and tourists to listen to the facts of the long history of Thanjavur. Also there are many capacity building programs for students to inculcate the priceless culture in the young minds through interactive and inclusive traditional events.
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| Unknown Mandapam near Punnainallur Mariyamman Temple |
I hope this post gives a small overview of the potential of the heritage in Thanjavur. You all are welcome to the Thanjavur, of which most of the history is just written in books and not heard like that of Brihadeeshwara’s and Palace’s. Stay tuned for more information on untold history of Thanjavur being told by East Gaterr.
Yours East
Gaterr